Lisbon rises and falls over seven hills, all tiled façades, rattling trams and river light. A few words of Portuguese go a surprisingly long way in this warm, easygoing capital.

  • Ride Tram 28 — the vintage yellow tram that grinds up through Alfama, Graça and Estrela. Go early before it fills; it's a moving tour of the old city.
  • Belém Tower & Jerónimos Monastery — the golden age of exploration in stone, side by side on the river. Then queue for a warm pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém.
  • Alfama & São Jorge Castle — the oldest quarter, a tangle of lanes where fado drifts out of doorways, crowned by a Moorish castle with the city at its feet.
  • The miradouros — Lisbon's hilltop viewpoints. Senhora do Monte and Santa Luzia are the classics: a glass of wine, a guitar, the red roofs going gold.
  • LX Factory — an old industrial site turned into shops, murals and cafés under the 25 de Abril bridge. Sunday brunch here is a small institution.

Portuguese sounds tricky but "obrigado/obrigada" (thank you) and "bom dia" already open doors. Find a Portuguese speaker below and arrive able to order that tart in the local tongue.