Istanbul straddles two continents and about fifteen empires. It's chaotic, gorgeous and endlessly hospitable — a "merhaba" and a smile will get you tea before you know it.
- Hagia Sophia — cathedral, then mosque, then museum, now mosque again: 1,500 years of history under one vast dome. Dress modestly and go early.
- The Blue Mosque — Sultanahmet's masterpiece, its interior lined with 20,000 blue İznik tiles. Just across the square from Hagia Sophia, so see both in a morning.
- The Grand Bazaar — 4,000 shops under painted vaults. Bargaining is expected and friendly; accept the offered tea, then say "çok pahalı!" (too expensive!) with a smile.
- A Bosphorus ferry — the cheapest cruise in the world. Ride between Europe and Asia with a glass of tea, gulls overhead, palaces sliding past.
- Topkapı Palace — the Ottoman sultans' court, with harem, treasury and gardens over the Golden Horn. The view from the terrace is the whole city at once.
Turkish hospitality rewards even a few words — "teşekkürler" (thank you) works wonders. Find a Turkish speaker below and arrive ready to bargain and to thank.