Hanoi is Vietnam at full volume: motorbike rivers, sizzling street kitchens, and a thousand years of history down every lane. A "xin chào" and a willingness to sit on a tiny plastic stool will take you far.
- The Old Quarter's 36 streets — the ancient trading heart, each street once devoted to a single craft. Wander, dodge the motorbikes, and eat everything on a stool by the road.
- Hoan Kiem Lake & Ngoc Son Temple — the city's serene green centre, with a red bridge to a little temple island. At dawn it fills with locals doing tai chi.
- Train Street — a working railway that threads within inches of the houses; cafés serve you as the train roars past. Check the timetable and mind the barriers.
- The Temple of Literature — Vietnam's first university, founded in 1070: tranquil courtyards, ponds and pavilions honouring scholars. A calm counterpoint to the traffic.
- Egg coffee (cà phê trứng) — the Hanoi invention: strong coffee under a whipped, custardy egg cream. Find it down an alley at Giảng Café and sip it slowly.
Vietnamese is tonal and tricky, but "cảm ơn" (thank you) and a smile go a very long way. Meet a Vietnamese speaker below and get your ear tuned to the tones before you go.
